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ProPanels...Cable Hanger or Hanger Kit...That is the Question!

I've just switched over from mesh panels to ProPanels after many satisfied years of the former. I wanted to be able to do indoor shows without having to use my tent frame, or any frame for that matter. It looked cheesy and I wanted a more professional look, but I digress.

What I would like to know from a users perspective is what works. What do I mean by what works? Well I bought cable hangers for the pro panels and found that they tend to slip and slide towards the middle with 2D work that is hung by wire. I didn't have that problem with the mesh panels as the hooks stuck in the holes and the work stayed there. I'm finding that the cable hangers tend to slide around toward the center on the wires and the work seems unstable. I'm wondering if I try their "hanger system" instead if those would be more stable, in other words they won't slide to the center of the wires and will keep the work level on the Pro Panels. So before I spend more money I'd like to hear from those of you that have experience with either or both of these systems I certainly would be interested in gaining your perspective or perhaps a way to keep the cable hangers from sliding around on 2D work that is hung on wire. I did put some heavy-duty duct tape folded over on the wire on the back of the frames to see if that would create some resistance for the cable hangers but that is not an ideal solution. I just checked on the work hanging in the garage and one photo was dangling at a precarious diagonal as the cable hanger had slid to the side.

As for using drapery hooks in the panel fabric, forget it, the work is too heavy and will cause the fabric to sag. Velcro around the edge of the work? Really? I don't think so, again the work is too heavy and it will cause wear on the fabric as well.

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Comment by Jon Walton on July 30, 2014 at 10:10am

2 words:  Walker Display --->>> http://www.walkerdisplay.com/hooks-holders.html

Many options.  Work Great.

2 more words: Pro Hangers  --->>> http://www.prohanger.net

Two of these hold up heavy pieces. Carpet stretches a little after 2-3 days but in bounces back by the next show.

Comment by Leslie Turner on July 29, 2014 at 8:42pm

I also have both the cable and hanger kits. I don't like the way the cable hangers push my work away from the wall, so I use the flat hankering kits. I spray painted them so that they blend into the carpet of the walls and almost disappear. I use two hangers for larger work so there is no sliding.

Comment by Deborah Butts on July 28, 2014 at 1:50pm

Another possibility...we just switched from mesh panels to pro panels.  On advice from another vendor (photographer) friend, we are using the following system.  Stapling 2-4 strips of 1" to 1-1/2" wide Velcro--one strip on top, bottom and each side--of the back of the frame.  Entire frame attaches to pro panels very quickly this way and wind can't get under the piece.  Works even if there is a frame with glass on the piece as you are putting the Velcro on the back of the frame.  Also keeping Harmon hangers in mind (yes they are still around).  There are a couple companies handling these type hangers in different sizes that you can use on larger pieces.  Our photographer friend does not frame his pieces but stretches all work on wood stretchers.  He attaches the Velcro to the back of his stretcher frames before hanging but has also used Velcro strips this way when hanging pieces with glass in frames.  Does add an extra step to the framing process, but looks very clean and no hooks to mess with! 

Comment by S Brian Berkun on July 28, 2014 at 11:49am

oops!  I like that they are flush to the panel as they wont make the top of the framed image tip down at the top.

Comment by S Brian Berkun on July 28, 2014 at 11:48am

I'm aware of the Harman Hooks and think they should work for medium to smaller pieces. I'm glad to hear I can leave them in place as I am concerned that each time you pull them off they would cause the fabric to pull out and become fuzzy and worn looking. I like that they are flush to the panel as they wont make the tip down at the top. I just ordered some this AM and yes they are still around.

Great idea about the "D" hooks for my wood framed images. I have a lot of work in metal frames, played around with it a little more last night and the hooks will fit between the frame and the mat at the top edge which is a little more secure and it doesn't slip! I also thought that perhaps I should get the longer wires, bend the hook out a little and secure it to the bottom edge of the panel by pulling tight on the wire, then the wires wont swing back and forth. I'll have to experiment with that!

Necessity is the mother of invention!

Comment by margaret luttrell on July 28, 2014 at 10:42am

I have used Harmon Hooks since I started but I am not sure if they went out of business since I haven't ordered any in years. They are large patch of velcro with a hook attached. they are super strong and hold anything and I just leave them on my panels and go on to the next show. You might want to look into that-very reasonable cost too.  

Comment by Leo Charette on July 28, 2014 at 7:45am
I have both, hanger kits and cable. My frames slip on both. As Mike indicates above, you need to use two kits or two cables per frame to keep things secure...a costly solution for medium to large frame. I have taken to laminating my work. This removes the heavy glass and I can hang medium work with two Velcro hangers (I like the look of laminate particularly in a floating frame.)

What is more concerning than having the frame slip on a hanger, is when hanging frames above one another on a single cable wire (or kit) on an outside wall. The wind can get under frames and lift them from the wall like a kite, gasp! Two hangers per frame helps alleviate this problem somewhat, but at times I've had to fasten a small bungee cord across the frame to keep it secured to the wall. This was not a problem with mesh because each frame hung independent of the other.
Comment by Mike Smith on July 27, 2014 at 9:27pm
If you use a couple of 'D Rings' as opposed to something like screw eyes to attach the wire to your picture frame, you can just hook the adjustable hooks that on the cables (always use 2 cables on my pix) directly into them. They can't possibly slip towards the middle ever that way. Works perfectly for me

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