I am trying to make a back drop for a bar for a client and I want to resin on a glass, as big as 9 ft by 4 ft.
I experimented on a small piece of glass and I was not able to get all the bubbles go away. And I was afraid to use the blow torch too much or too close because I feared the glass would break.
Please advise on what I should do. Any tips?
I will look forward to your response.
thanks much
Alka
Replies
hello Larry. Thanks for replying. I use epoxy resin that I buy from Art Resin website. The Art Resin team tells me to use Heat gun instead of the torch. Do you think it will work? Do you have a different idea? please advise.
thanks so much
How do I say this cautiously....? ArtResin s**ks.
They will tell you many different things with no technical information. No exact specifications. Just loose "guess work".
Torch is better than heat gun.
Heat gun usually wont produce near as much heat but will throw a lot of air, thereby causing uneveness, faster drying, surface scum, etc.
Have you tried heating the mixture first, prior to mixing? Perhaps have two vessels of water heated to about 90 degrees F. Pour the resin in one bowl, place that bowl into the water vessel. Repeat for the Hardner in separate vessel.
After they have warmed to temperature, combine in separate bowl, also in heated vessel.
By getting the premix up to about 80 to 85 degrees, will reduce the viscosity and allow for the air bubbles to rise to the surface. Then the torch should alleviate the issue.
*** However*** by raising the temperature of the mixture it will reduce the working time. No one has yet been able to tell me the numbers to calculate but it will reduce.
Use torch immediately, moving it very quickly across the work.
If you put it on very thin, easier to get the air bubbles out, however if you need to sand for second coat, risk of damaging artwork.
If you put it on thicker, more room for sanding and corrections however more problem with bubbles being sunken.
Be careful when mixing to not induce air, mix slowly with flat item.
If the piece you are going over has any chance of outgassing, seal it first.
Make sure you are in a clean room type of environment.
I will use the full 45 minute working time to keep torching and examining the piece.
As you have mentioned doing a 9' x 4' piece you may want to go on thin. Then go over it a second or third time, right afterward. WITHOUT sanding inbetween.
As the first coat may be past it's working time, don't wipe, just pour and torch.
If you sand the artresin USE a respirator.
OMG! I cannot thank you enough for your SO SO informational email. God bless you for that :-)
couple of questions/clarifications I have:
1) If not Art resin, what other resin do you suggest I should use?
2) You said "If the piece you are going over has any chance of outgassing, seal it first."....what do you mean by sealing? and how can I do that?
3) You said "As the first coat may be past it's working time, don't wipe, just pour and torch."....not sure what you mean by 'don't wipe'.
I will so eagerly wait for your response Larry.
1) I have not fond a specific other product I would atest to. However Hahnemuhle makes a varnish that is very good and clear.
It depends very much on:
A) what the artwork surface is.
B) How clear you need the glazing
C) Do you need UV protection.
D) How hard a surface you want.
E) What concerns for tonal changes are acceptble.
F) Speed of curing.
G) Environmental concerns for chemicals beign used.
H) Archive-ability of finished work.
There are many Polyurethane products.
Marine spar varnish
Liquid Glass
Epoxy Resins
2) Depending on the type of material you are working with, there are spray sealers. Again "Hahnemuhle Protective Spray" is very good. However wear a good respirator and be in a safe environment, Highly flammable. (I have no affiliation with Hahnemuhle, I just like their product quality.) Better test it with your medium first, however it is designed for artwork. I have not had any problems with it.
3) Normally you would spread the artresin after pouring. If the sub-layer is getting late into or beyond the "working time" and you spread, you might cause drag lines and problems. As neither layer is setting up yet you should be able to get away without sanding between coats.
On #3:
true that once I am beyond the 'working time' the resin will cause drag lines. So this is what I am thinking you are advising:
- work as fast as I can with each layer. and if it begins to drag, then leave it as-is. and then just pour the next layer once the previous layer cures.
Please correct me if I am not understanding you right.
thanks much
alka
except for the idea that... if it begins to drag...
Don't let it drag.
It will show through the layers applied afterward.
If it makes drag lines, you will likely have to sand it out.
Also, don't wait until it Cures. Pour the next layer as soon as you are ready with it. However make sure you have cleared the bubbles first.
With that product microbubbles are the plague.
Best to work the product as quickly as possible, spreading, then don't touch, except to remove dust or pop bubbles (a dental pick is good for this). Then just torch.
If you are preheating the product, you might not have to spread at all, as it will self level.
If you don't have an artist torch, Bernzomatic ST2200 is inexpensive. Can be purchased at many home improvement stores and works nicely for this product.