I purchased a Air Lite 5x8 covered trailer and am thinking on how to design the inside for art fairs. After 2 years with a 5x8 uHaul I finally got my own - no more unload/loading constantly **more on that later).
What I do NOW:
When loading I would first put two large ULine boxes full of canvas prints down the middle. I can get 15+ down in two boxes because the boxes are rather bendy and the canvas is covered with bubble wrap (from those Uline boxes) they seem rather comfy and no harm has ever come to them.
Then I put my trimline polls and canopy on the left side. Just sort of toss them in as the Canvas keep them in place.
Right side has the sideways framed prints. The rest is rather helter skelter with 9 3x3 runner flooring not having a permanent spot yet (those I believe had paid for them selves already).
What I Envision!
DYIers let me know if this is crazy - make square plywood boxes with vertical shelves so each canvas has it's own nest, maybe used carpet scraps on the top edges?? Put 4 wheels on the bottom and two handles on the outside. OR - make those not vertical but on 45% slants so the canvas rests on it's bars.
Since the trailer has 3/4 inch plywood the floor was rough and did not slide boxes well. I put linoleum ($25) on the floor so boxes slide easier. My Trimline always go on the left floor and that is tripled linoleum-ed (worked out perfect with left over scraps).
I would LOVE to figure out a way for the canopy sides and top to hang down the middle but I need more engineers on that one.
I have canopy weights at the front for road harmonics my awesome rubber flooring has not found a permanent home yet (it's being difficult). Hanging on the side?? How to attach, too much weight?
It's 300 lb less then the uHaul.
The shot just a snap shot showing Uline Canvas box and trimline. Now that I had it full for the 1st time I must empty it because I have to pick up and deliver a 2x7 foot canvas print! that won't fit in my car! OF COURSE - I've now loaded and unloaded one extra time LOL
Comments? Opinions?
Replies
The 60% figure is correct. But that does not mean to say put as much weight as you can in the front. Think of your trailer as a teeter/totter and the axle is the pivot point. All you want to do is be sure that when you disconnect the trailer it is not doing a wheelie! It does not take much to make sure you have positive tongue weight. The push pull effect will change based on your wheel base for the tow vehicle/trailer combination and the road you are on. This is especially true on concrete roads where you can see the seam lines where the concrete pours start and stop. I was pulling a 34' 12ton trailer back from Texas and when I hit the Oklahoma Turnpike I had to stop and get a kidney belt because the seams in the road perfectly matched the distance between the rear tires of my tow vehicle and the front axles of the trailer. It was nerve racking.
As for your racks consider using aluminum framing and acrylic sheeting to save on weight.
I'm pulling with a Subaru Outback so the 5x8 uHaul I believe was just on the edge for pulling. Most of the time I do not have problems with pulling tugging but on Hwy151 in Wisconsin the slabs are hideous but when I put more weight right at the front of the trailer it seemed to help a lot.
I did have to lower my hitch so the trailer would be more level.
I really do not have a lot of weight going INTO the trailer!! Tent weights (120ib total) a the trimline polls are the heaviest things. Otherwise canvas and frames (no glass).
Not sure I want to raise the floor - only 4'4" floor to ceiling anyway. LUCKILY I don't HAVE to do anything as I'm pretty darn happy. Just looking for ways to augment. Keep the ideas coming.
Right now my biggest problem is the 9 rubber flooring. They don't have a great spot to go yet.
I pulled a 5X8 trailer behind an Outback for about 3 years.
Here are some comments that I posted a while back:
http://www.artfairinsiders.com/forum/topics/pulling-a-trailer?comme...
I think you need to get away from the cardboard box and build permanent shelving that will balance over the back wheels of the trailer (wish I had better pictures of the trailer loaded but I've long since sold the trailer.) I like your idea of a wheeled unit (do you have a ramp door on your trailer?). I know several artists that have units like that and roll them out of their trailer and use them as their display in the tent (see photographer Jim Parker's blog post).
Hope this helps.
Hey Rod...congrats on the new trailer! That is next on my list now that I upgraded my camera. I don't know if this would work, but one thing I have thought about doing when I get the trailer is adding another floor. Maybe some 2x4s or 2x6s around the perimeter and a couple down the middle then plywood on top. That would allow me to slide all the tent stuff in and out without having the artwork in the way. Could possibly slide the weights there too and the tent walls. Then the artwork and other lighter stuff like table, bin, etc. can go on the second plywood. Possibly some hooks on one side wall to hang the small ladder.
I like your idea of the linoleum to slide things in and out easier.
I did the raised floor for my pickup and love it. Just slide my wall panels, tent, and poles in under the floor. However you do it, making slide in or fitted compartments for panels, tent, poles, etc. really helps.
As for trailer weight balancing, I used to trailer a small race car. I always tried to get about 100 pounds of tongue weight. You will have to experiment with weight to see what's the best. With tent weights you can always move them around to figure it out.
I have canopy weights at the front for road harmonics my awesome rubber flooring has not found a permanent home yet (it's being difficult). Hanging on the side?? How to attach, too much weight?
I am not sure what you are referring to with regards to road harmonics? But as an experienced fabricator, welder, and long experience trailer hauler You want to keep your tongue weight to a minimum. This is done by keeping your heaviest items over the axle and not in the front. And remember, plywood is heavy and greatly reduces your payload and your fuel mileage!
That's what I thought. Not just trailer storage but when NOT in the trailer. Plus with rollers I can roll all of them around and if I get creative use a box as a table for the canopy.
One of the problems I had with u Hauls were they would do a lot of tugging. I talked to the uHaul people and they said put as much weight at the front as I could. I did that and I had smooth rides on the bad roads that are made out of slabs.
There online instructions say "Load 60% of the cargo weight in the front half of the trailer box". Not exactly the same but . . . . . What causes the constant tug/push/tug/push in a trailer on some roads ???
As for the box - How much will mileage really go down and is it THAT important? I'm already 300 pounds lighter then a uHaul but I get your drift. The question is would a wooden box make my canvas more secure AND a smaller foot print which is the big issue.
What is the vehicle you're towing with? Is the hitch receiver attached to the frame? I ask that because back in the 90s I had a Chevy S-10 Blazer. I towed a 5x8 Haulmark and I experienced the tugging and pulling you describe. However, when I hooked it up to my Nissan pickup, I had no troubles. So it just might be your tow vehicle.
I always place my heaviest items right on the axle. Keeps the load steady. But you can have a lot of fun if you place the weight behind the axle. That makes for fun driving.