Call for Artists, Making Money at Juried Art Fairs, Craft Shows and Festivals
Looking for the answer to transprting by larger art work.... for my smaller photos rubermaid bins do just fine but for my pieces 22x28 and up its an issue. Currently using old foamcore boxes that end up tattered and tore .. need durable, weather proof , and easy to carry . Don't want to break the bank either .... last artist next to me had these beautiful cases i was so envious of .... turns out they were custom made.....sounds expensive!
I transport 24x30 framed pieces in a couple of 31 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck totes. Use Liquid Nails and glue the lids face to face. Take a box knife or sabre saw and cut out the middle all the way to the outer ring. The rings will still fit on the top of the totes and will let you use the second tote as a lid. It would be a good idea to use the Liquid Nails to glue the lid ring to the bottom tub to give it more strength and rigidity when you have to drag the tubs.
I do the same thing with an 18 gallon tote and a 9 gallon tote, with the smaller one used for the lid. I use that combo for 18x24 matted work, and it will work with framed pieces that use the 111 profile.
If you need pictures of it, let me know.
wow , sounds like a great idea with minimal expense.. having trouble visualizing .. would love a picture... im doing this asap.thanks Robert
I'll take a shot tonight of one of the smaller tubs. I'm walking out the door to set up for Talbott Street Art fair.
Take your time and thanks so much... ive read it a few times over and I think i understand what to do .. thanks again
I've read many of your posts, and they are very helpful. I'm getting back in the art show circuit soon, so I'm gathering a lot of great info on this site. Can you send me or post a picture of your31 gallon Rubbermaid totes showing how they are actually put together? I think I get it from your description but a photo or two would be a big help. Thank you.
here's the link to where I posted photos of the combined totes;
Great idea, Robert!
I'm actually looking for the same thing, and Roberts solution may just work for me, too. My problem may be fitting it into my truck, but I may be able lay them on their side.
I've also seen someone using a wheeled rubbermaid type trash can to hold his artwork. Not sure if he was using separators or if he wrapped the painting in bubblewrap.
I have been looking for the same thing.....
I have prints up to 24 x 36 (matted) and would love a plastic container instead of the boxes I use. There are those great flat 'slide under the bed' plastic boxes but I have not found ones large enough.
If I come across anything will let you know...
Convoy Containers used to make boxes out of Coroplast. Unfortunately they went out of business last year, but you can make your own.
The easiest and fastest method is to use 1x pine for the bottom and sides. Wider planks give you more storage for framed work, but the finished box will also weigh more. I found that 2x10s work pretty well. Cut the two side and the bottom, and screw them into a "u" shape. Cut your coroplast to cover both sides and use 1" lathe screws to fasten the coroplast to the each side. If you anticipate putting a lot of weight into them, I'd suggest making them thinner, and glueing the corners before screwing the wood pieces together.
The tops are a little trickier. They can be constructed entirely out of coroplast. Make a prototype first. Score the ends for folding. The material will bend easily against the grain, and have a tendency not to fold where you want it when bending with the grain. Leave tabs so you can fasten them when assembling.
I used 24x36 sheets, so I had to make end caps separately and fasten them to a longer piece to get a long enough piece. (My boxes are 24x36"). I also used a rivet tool to fasten the tabs after glueing. E-6000, available at Michaels and other craft stores, will hold it nicely, as long as you clamp it for 24 hours. You can use duct tape in absence of clamps. The two rivets on the right hold the end flaps to the longer piece. The single rivet on the left holds the end cap assembly to the main box top. This could have been more elegant, but I'm more interested in seeing how these will hold up vis a vis cardboard. Coroplast is pretty water resistant, but water can get into the corrugated flutes.
Finally, a handle on each of the short wood ends so you can move it. I use chest handles, which fold flat out of the way, but there are lots of options. Check out Home Depot or Lowes hardware department.
Thanks to Chuck Wimmer and Nha Vhu for the inspiration and the prototypes!
Hi Jim - I like the look of these. Did you use the Plasticor whitecap utility sheet, 10mm thickness?
How many framed prints fit in each box?
No, it's Coroplast 4mm with the flutes running horizontally. You can get it with the grain running either way, in a whole bunch of different sizes.
Here's one source: Harbor Sales
I can fit five 30x20x1.5" gallery wraps in Frame Destination Gallery Pouches in these. Inside dimension is 34.5" x 23.25". The depth is standard 1x12 #2 pine (11.25" wide). I used lathe screws, with a built in washer to screw into the pine boards. The tops are three pieces riveted and glued with E-6000. You can make them pretty much any size you want. The tops are constructed kind of funny, since I only had 36" stock. Had to make the end caps separate.