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Attaching photos

Posted by Peter William Katke on January 13, 2011 at 3:29pm

Hey,

 

I've been having some trouble with attaching prints/photographs to my mats.  I've noticed (and tried to correct) warping/waving on some of my larger prints.  I can't logistically drymount everything I do so I was wondering how you all attach your 2D prints/photos to your mats/frames.  First to keep them in place and second to prevent the larger ones from warping in the changing weather conditions.  I've used photomount before, but it seems that they still warp unless you spray half a can on it.  I've taped at the top only originally, then photomount, but they both still warp.  What's that sticky stuff that peels off (like ads on phonebooks etc).

 

Thanks, Pete

 

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Replies

  • Mark Rogers January 19, 2011 at 8:40pm

    My company has a lot of info about picture mounting here:

    http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.html

    Also this assembly video shows an easy way to attach the print to the mat:

    http://www.framedestination.com/wood_picture_frame_inst.html

     

    Cheers,

    Mark

  • Peter William Katke January 14, 2011 at 4:51pm

    Gary,

     

    I just found that link about the mounting on LL.  I'm still reading but thanks for that it is very helpful!

  • Peter William Katke January 14, 2011 at 4:34pm

    Thanks everyone for your replies.  I'm always looking for ways to improve and problem solve (learn!)

     

    So Gary, thank you for your suggestions.  I understand the hinging thing and that is what we do in our frame shop for our clients, but I know that stuff is $$$.  I think I'll be able to use less than I do now though to cut down on the difference.  I stayed away from it in the past due to the cost for many, many mats/frames.  One question though, how does that keep the prints from warping (or does it)?  You said you don't attach the front mat to the back.  I don't either, but just to clarify you do attach the print to the mat?  I'll look into the corners and I'll also look at LL.

     

    Geoff, I've only had the problem with my framed prints.  I sort of worried that if I was having the problem in my frames that clients would have the same problem eventually with the mats they bought to frame themselves.  I'm not sure that it wouldn't happen in their homes since humidity can affect a lot of things in the home.

     

    Connie, good to know I'm not alone!  What is this crazy cold mounting you speak of.  Do I need to buy a drymount machine to do that?  Part of my problem is that my prints are double matted now, increasing the space between the glass and the print.  

     

    Thanks again everyone, now's the time to fix the little problems.

     

    PK

    • Connie Mettler > Peter William Katke January 14, 2011 at 5:36pm
      now I have to ask the expert -- don't remember this for definite. No, you don't need a machine. You purchase this film and laminate it to the photo, you put it on the back of the photo, rolling it on with a brayer and then you peel off that backing and stick it to the foam core - I'll get back to you with the supplier.
  • Geoff Coe January 14, 2011 at 10:53am

    Curious: Are you having problems with the ones you sell framed, the ones you sell mat-only, or both?

    I don't sell framed pieces anymore at art shows because the ones that were struck by sunlight for extended periods heated up under glass and caused warping such as you describe.  Ones that were bagged, in mats, in my browse bins never had the problem. 

     

    • Connie Mettler > Geoff Coe January 14, 2011 at 4:08pm

      We always showed framed photos also and tested out early on in the business how to avoid this warping and moisture build up under the glass. Norm tested various materials under glass and then put them in the back seat of the car in the sun on a hot summer day, subjecting the photos to a lot more heat and humidity than would ever happen at an art fair. Very scientific, right? :-)

       

      What he settled on: All photos were cold mounted on foam core then framed (Nielsen metal frames) under glass with many clips between the foam core and the frame so that the photos were tight in the frame. When you shook the frame nothing moved. We never had moisture again.

  • Gary Haynes January 13, 2011 at 11:48pm

    Pete

     

    Check out the discussion on Luminous-Landscape.com.  For my prints, up to a mat size of 20x24 I follow an archival method.

    1.  I use T Hinges.  On the back of the print I use Filmoplast P-90 tape.  This is mounted to the back of the top of the print face up, about half on the print the other half exposed.

    2.  Use Tyvek tape over the top of the P-90 tape.

    3.  On large prints I use Filmoplast clear corners on each corner.  More to help keep the print from shifting.  They don't support the print.  The have 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge of the print.

    4.  I use archival foamcore.  

     

    I don't attach the front mat to the back.  It is simply laid over the print and back.

     

    Learned this from someone I consider to be a master at all things printing, Bill Atkinson.  You may recognize Bill's name.  He basically invented the Mac GUI and things like MacPaint at Apple.

     

    Drymounting or spraying for mounting isn't really an archival method of mounting prints.

     

    Gary

    www.reflectionsimaging.com

     

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