Looking for the answer to transprting by larger art work....  for my smaller photos rubermaid bins do just fine but for my pieces 22x28 and up its an issue. Currently using old foamcore boxes that end up tattered and tore .. need durable, weather proof , and  easy to carry . Don't want to break the bank either .... last artist next to me had these beautiful cases i was so envious of .... turns out they were custom made.....sounds expensive!

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  • I carve large, and heavy, wooden panels for wall art. Some of them are as large as 3'x5' and can weigh up to 60 lbs.

    I've been using reflective insulation from Home Depot for a few years now. You can buy it in different widths and different lengths. And it is fairly inexpensive. What I do is cut it to size and then make an envelope out of it by duct taping the sides together. I do leave one side larger than the others to encompass a flap. All my carvings go on a cart (dolly), so I can wheel it to my spot, I then lift the carving out and hang it. At the end of the show, I just do the opposite and slide the carving into the bag, put it back on the cart and into the trailer. If I take an extra piece with me, it can stay on the cart and will be fully protected from the elements. 

    If it gets ripped, torn, or looking slightly used.... just add more duct tape

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  • Convoy Containers used to make boxes out of Coroplast. Unfortunately they went out of business last year, but you can make your own.

    The easiest and fastest method is to use 1x pine for the bottom and sides. Wider planks give you more storage for framed work, but the finished box will also weigh more. I found that 2x10s work pretty well. Cut the two side and the bottom, and screw them into a "u" shape. Cut your coroplast to cover both sides and use 1" lathe screws to fasten the coroplast to the each side. If you anticipate putting a lot of weight into them, I'd suggest making them thinner, and glueing the corners before screwing the wood pieces together.

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    The tops are a little trickier. They can be constructed entirely out of coroplast. Make a prototype first. Score the ends for folding. The material will bend easily against the grain, and have a tendency not to fold where you want it when bending with the grain. Leave tabs so you can fasten them when assembling.

    301649830?profile=originalI used 24x36 sheets, so I had to make end caps separately and fasten them to a longer piece to get a long enough piece. (My boxes are 24x36"). I also used a rivet tool to fasten the tabs after glueing. E-6000, available at Michaels and other craft stores, will hold it nicely, as long as you clamp it for 24 hours. You can use duct tape in absence of clamps. The two rivets on the right hold the end flaps to the longer piece. The single rivet on the left holds the end cap assembly to the main box top. This could have been more elegant, but I'm more interested in seeing how these will hold up vis a vis cardboard. Coroplast is pretty water resistant, but water can get into the corrugated flutes.

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    Finally, a handle on each of the short wood ends so you can move it. I use chest handles, which fold flat out of the way, but there are lots of options. Check out Home Depot or Lowes hardware department.

    Thanks to Chuck Wimmer and Nha Vhu for the inspiration and the prototypes!

    • I am still using these, seven years later. They are not 100% waterproof, but have kept a lot of work dry.

    • 1 x 10's -- 2x10's are overkill! My three boxes have held up super well since I built them four years ago. They are great for lighter work, like canvas wraps.

    • Hi Jim - I like the look of these.  Did you use the Plasticor whitecap utility sheet, 10mm thickness?

      How many framed prints fit in each box?

      • No, it's Coroplast 4mm with the flutes running horizontally. You can get it with the grain running either way, in a whole bunch of different sizes.

        Here's one source: Harbor Sales

        I can fit five 30x20x1.5" gallery wraps in Frame Destination Gallery Pouches in these. Inside dimension is 34.5" x 23.25". The depth is standard 1x12 #2 pine (11.25" wide). I used lathe screws, with a built in washer to screw into the pine boards. The tops are three pieces riveted and glued with E-6000. You can make them pretty much any size you want. The tops are constructed kind of funny, since I only had 36" stock. Had to make the end caps separate.

        • look great Jim, and organized.. I should make some if I had the time. I have many of the Convoy Container boxes with colorplast material, and found another company Amatech-Poly 800-403-6920 x18 in Erie PA.. to make them for me. They have made two rounds for me so far, and know what we are looking for. You give them the inside dimension  and they give you a blueprint drawing to approve, before execution.. Depends on size, but can run $150-200 for larger boxes. I pick them up on my way to Chicago, which seems like a couple times every year.. Not sure what shipping costs. You have to order some kind of quantity, they are a fairly large manufacturing plant.. Talk to Vince, he knows about the "artist boxes".

  • I have been looking for the same thing.....

    I have prints up to 24 x 36 (matted) and would love a plastic container instead of the boxes I use.  There are those great flat 'slide under the bed' plastic boxes but I have not found ones large enough.

    If I come across anything will let you know...

  • I'm actually looking for the same thing, and Roberts solution may just work for me, too.  My problem may be fitting it into my truck, but I may be able lay them on their side. 

    I've also seen someone using a wheeled rubbermaid type trash can to hold his artwork.  Not sure if he was using separators or if he wrapped the painting in bubblewrap. 

  • Great idea, Robert!

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